“I had always heard your entire life flashes in front of your eyes the second before you die. First of all, that one second isn't a second at all, it stretches on forever, like an ocean of time...” – Lester Burnham (Kevin Spacey), American Beauty
No, this is not an article about the finale of LOST. Memorial Day is rapidly approaching, so rapidly in fact, that when this article is released there will be less than 24 hours until the “unofficial” beginning of the summer. May for me was all about the creation of my pop-up restaurant series, “The Hunger,” and preparation of my business, mind, and soul, for the high season. Now it is here, anticipation is dissipating, the action is beginning, and I can almost taste the Coronas, smell the BBQ, and feel the frigid early summer ocean.
This time last year, I was turning 30, and my existence and beliefs began to unravel. After a brief self-imposed destruction of my reality, I began painting a new picture, built on truth, authenticity, and equal parts madness and tranquility. There are new rules – or no rules, actually. Life is now improv, being performed by a seasoned thespian and a carefully selected band of misfits, each with their own magical power. The winter and spring seasons have flashed before my eyes, with my point of view evolving moment to moment. I am now on page 200 of the 365 page book titled, “how to turn your life inside out, upside down, and right side up, without trying.” Why am I excited about Memorial Day? This book is a page turner, and I cannot imagine what is coming in the next chapter.
Unlike the great heroes of our past, whose conquests focused on countries or empires, I will be remembered for my unrepentant desire and triumph over all things culinary, alcoholic, caffeinated, and I would like to think, chic. I have struggled with how I can continue to share these deliciously decadent endeavors without seeming sophomoric or presenting traditional reviews. What I have come up with for now is “The Round Up,” a collection of any relevant urbanite experiences that I believe you should get out and taste. I will attempt to be short and sweet, but if I end up long winded and acerbic, so be it. Don’t read if you don’t like it, biach.
This Week’s Round Up
Balaboosta is new restaurant in Nolita with an innovative design marrying two storefronts – one allowing you to see into the kitchen and the other, into the restaurant. I believe there is definitely a resurgent trend toward watching your food be prepared, but even more to “food as theater.” Einat Admony is the chef of this restaurant whose name means “the perfect housewife” in Yiddish. The restaurant has incredible service and really good food. The only service issue is the regular crashing of flatware during the tableside Hummus service. Ambitiously prepared with a way-too-heavy mortar and pestle, it tends to crash to the floor prior to arriving at your table. Otherwise the restaurant is spot on, for food, I recommend the fried olives, falafel wrapped meatballs, chicken, and lamb prepared three ways. Pass on the shrimp "Kataïf."
2.75 out of 4 cocktails
Torrisi Italian Specialties makes the best turkey that I have ever had in my life. Brined and then roasted and salted, the meat is tender, rich, and delicious. When I lived in Florence, Italy, I used to eat every afternoon at a sandwich shop called, Antico Noe. Torrisi is the closest thing to this style of sandwich shop in New York: artisan-prepared products served with homemade vegetables and sauces (I like the spicy one) on freshly baked bread. The most popular item is their sublime chicken parmesan sandwich, which is flavorful and prepared with top quality ingredients. The fellas who run it are super friendly and very passionate about their new business. They recently opened for dinner and have received four stars from New York Magazine for their efforts. On my last visit they had some issues with keeping up with the demand, but I am sure they will work out the kinks. Bonus: they have a picture of a young Billy Joel and Marino’s Italian Ice containers decorating their walls. I hope to make many scenes at Torrisi, definitely one of MY Italian restaurants.
3 out of 4 cocktails
La Biblioteca at Zengo is located in the cursed space that formerly housed Tuscan Steak, English is Italian, and Wild Salmon. Richard Sandoval, who unbeknownst to me has about a million restaurants (more like 15) all over the world, has rolled the dice and a considerable chunk of change on this space. I have yet to have a full dinner upstairs, but because of my considerable love for tequila, I made it my business to visit the downstairs at “La Biblioteca.” Avroko designed the space and it is reminiscent of what I would imagine a tasting room would look like in a modern tequila distillery. They have 400 types of tequila along with a great bar menu. The guacamole was not well prepared, but the other items, including a tuna and chicken, were very flavorful and the perfect accompaniment to the tequila. I definitely intend to check out the upstairs restaurant, but recommend that Zengo invest in adding more vibe and sex to kick this restaurant into high gear, before it is too late. On the other hand, if you are looking for a night of sipping tequila, definitely check out La Biblioteca. I recommend Jose Cuervo Reserva de la Familia or Jalapeño flavored Tanteo.
2 out of 4 cocktails
Pulino’s has experienced its share of critic drama with the recent one-star review in The New York Times. The thing that I don’t understand is why this restaurant should be reviewed at that level. Other than the involvement of a notable owner and chef, it is just a sexed-up pizza joint with some obscure menu items to make it seem more than just that. The true appeal is the simplicity – a great scene, a great drink, a great slice, all in the right location. I guess Mcnally is trying to raise the bar, but bottom line, it is a trattoria. The space is not Mcnally’s best, which happens when he ventures outside of French cuisine. It feels like Manhattan, Paris, and Rome bumped into each other. Just enjoy it for what it is: a simple, flavorful, New York trattoria and pizza spot. It’s definitely one of the better pies around and they also serve a fabulous breakfast.
2.5 out of 4 cocktails
Ippudo was recommended to me by a chef who knows noodles, as one of the best places in Manhattan for Asian noodles/ramen. The space is done nicely and the theatrics are in place (i.e. the welcome “chant” as customers enter the dining room). Appetizers were mediocre, at best. The buns couldn’t hold a candle to Momofuku and the house pickles were also just average. The main event: Shiromaru Hakata Classic Ramen. Drum roll please… mediiiiiooooooocre. I say this less because of its preparation and more because of the fact that I don’t really love the dish to begin with. The noodles and broth were definitely well-executed, but the addition of egg and an array of toppings makes it too much for me. I would prefer a simple broth with noodles any day over this complicated “mishegas.”
1.5 out of 4 cocktails
Despana is the only market (and café) in NYC that specializes in all things Spanish, one of the most exciting and fastest growing cuisines in the culinary scene. Owned by food importers Angelica and Marcos Intriago, Despana features specialties such as Jamon Iberico, Flautas, Pintxos, and an endless variety of imported meats, cheeses, oils, and confections. I recommend stopping in to try the Tortilla Despana, a Spanish style omelet of potatoes, eggs, chorizo, and peppers, topped with slices of fresh tomato on a Ciabatta-style roll; an authentic and delectable taste of traditional Spanish street food.
“I guess I could be pretty pissed off about what happened to me... but it's hard to stay mad, when there's so much beauty in the world. Sometimes I feel like I'm seeing it all at once, and it's too much, my heart fills up like a balloon that's about to burst... And then I remember to relax, and stop trying to hold on to it, and then it flows through me like rain and I can't feel anything but gratitude for every single moment of my stupid little life... You have no idea what I'm talking about, I'm sure. But don't worry... you will someday.” – Lester Burnham (Kevin Spacey), American Beauty
See you next time at Cocktail Hour, where more often than not one drink turns into ten and no one knows where and when the night will end.
- AP